Birdlands

 

Interview w/ K. Papusza
by PRETTY IN BLACK

 

-When did your aesthetic develop? Your perspective on the language of clothing is very interesting.

I guess I would say I have more or less spent this lifetime developing my aesthetic, and it continues to grow. My philosophy on living is that it's all about exploration, and finding the things that may not always appear on the surface. I think the base of my aesthetic spawned when I was a child, from a combination of an innate belief in spirits (and my intricate, strange childhood friendships with ghosts), and growing up in an environment where I was around both a lot of nature and liberal intellect. I always expressed myself through clothes, and having an overly active imagination always bred unconventional ideas about adornment. In my teenage years and early adulthood I experienced both a lot of struggle and adventure (on the premise of exploration). I think all of this played a huge part in my creating as vehemently as I do now.... my philosophy has always been that struggling breeds creativity and I have lived by this for as long as I can remember being happy. Creating is more or less my therapy... I would even go so far as to say it's saved my life at times. A fascination with things such as eastern Europe, cultural anthropology, the circus, the sea and alternative/pop culture has also played an intrinsic role in how my current aesthetic has developed. I think it's always evolving based on the world around me.

-Do you express yourself with other forms of art, or have you in the past?

Sure... when I was younger I focused more on 2-D arts, like painting and drawing, but never fully pursued them. I've always loved poetry... and not just poetry, but the idea of poetry... it's one of the few things we have left that is purely romantic in this day and age. I love language and I love playing with it to express myself. I've always taken pride in my sharp tongue and ability to articulate. I like to cook a lot... that could be considered an art by some but I think of it more as creative nurturing. I like to make collages and dreamcatchers... pretty, multi-media things. I have shrines all over my room. I love composing scenes by putting lot's of tiny little things together.

-If so, how did each inform the other, and have they informed your clothing designs?

Oh yes, all the forms of art are definitely interwoven. They all come from this very special place that's about feeding and understanding what's inside of me, and how I interact with the world around me... sometimes that comes out so I can show it to other people, but sometimes it is more about using the creativity as a tool to understand myself. Designing clothes is like language to me... I think of it as being an extension of the spirit, in being so close to the skin. After having spent time working in the hyper-cosnumer driven fashion industry of NYC, and realizing how homogenized the industry as a whole is, I have made it one of my personal goals in life to preserve the artisan element of adornment.

-Describe Papusza in Birdland from your perspective?

Papusza means "doll" in Romani (the language of the gypsies aka Roma). It is also the name of a famous Roma poet, who wrote beautifully, and was always portrayed as beautiful, wise, strong and free-spirit in the accounts I have read about her. It is also a nickname I acquired when I was much younger and has always sort of sat well with me, because all the things I admire in Papusza are traits I wish to develop in myself. Birdland is my dream land. It is the ethereal land of ghosts, fairy tales, dead roses, skeleton keys, pirates with tears tattooed besides their eyes-all things beautiful and morbid... the dark-side serene and beautiful, at peace. It's a safe place I have always gone to, ever since I was a child, when I feel strange, scared or alone. It's the world I've created in my head for my art to live in. I'm always glad to know it's there and no one will ever be able to take it away from me.

-Where are you from originally, and where are you now?

I've always been a bit of a gypsy. I lived in Oregon when I was a child and young adult. Spent some time in Utah and Washington-as well as Oregon-when I was a teen. I moved to Arizona at 18, stayed a couple years, and then came to Seattle; where I went to school for a couple years and acquired my influences in anthropology. Following my time in Seattle I moved to New York for about 5 years. I loved it, but got burnt out by the time I hit my late 20's. I just turned 30 last month, and have been residing in the bay area for about a year now. Currently I am in an amazing warehouse in West Oakland. I love it... it's really beautiful and inspiring in an urban decomposition kind of way.

-You travel very much. How does that affect your art?-Why do you move around so often?

It inspires me, though sometimes it wares me out. I have been learning a lot lately about the balance between creating and exploring... and how to keep that balance in sync. I like traveling, moving, meeting people and seeing as much as I can. Life is all about experiences, it's what we make of it. I believe that the more experiences we are able to encounter the greater our character becomes. I have always been a free spirit-a nomad of sorts-and I have always had a streak of restlessness in my personality. I think it's just the way I'm wired. I can't ever imagine growing up... and when I do finally "grow up" my goal is to be a mermaid. So yes, moving around/traveling a lot can be exhausting, but there is also a passion that goes hand in hand with it, and I don't ever see that passion as not being a part of who I am. I guess the important part, and what I have been waging for the past 9 months or so of my life, is how to keep the stability balanced with the fluidity. The older I am getting the more and more I am becoming aware that some sort of grounding is needed to keep my head on straight.

-Moving around a lot would be hard on me and my closet! How do you decide which pieces are precious enough to keep in your personal wardrobe? Or do you just pack light?

It is really hard... I had to go through it a lot when I was living in New York-constantly moving-and for the years following that while I was floating. I lost, sold and gave away a lot of beautiful things... including vintage clothes I had been collecting since I was a teen, as well as favorite pieces people given to me-wears I had been given from designers I knew when I was working for them, things I wouldn't be able to afford now as an artist. This purge was all happening at the end of my 20's, during my gypsy spell, my Saturn Return, as you might say. It was a compelling reminded of what I am made of, where I come from, the things I have done in my life. It strengthened my spirit. I try not to get to attached to material things... even clothes.

With that in mind, I do hang onto things that hold nostalgic value and things that I've made. I have a very strong sense of style. Practicality is always the base, but beyond that I think there can always be new things to replace the old, and then a few special charms that I hope I never have to let go. On the basis of practicality I wear lot's of leggings, thigh highs, vintage dresses, sweaters, boots (I'm a total boot girl... as long as I have a good pair of boots I am golden), torn vintage t-shirts, shorts, ripped stockings... all compact types of pieces. The charms are usually my jewelry, vintage lingerie... usually beautiful things made by friends of mine. When I fall in love with charms I never let them go. Most of them are easy to travel with...

That said I have been living in the same spot in Oakland for a year now... it's a warehouse I share with a few other artists. My closet here is as big as the last room I lived in when I left Manhattan. I have plenty of space for clothes. It's been fun acquiring them again, building them up in my closet. Making myself stuff... just made myself an exquisite mermaid jacket with three types of sequence. I love playing dress-up.

-Do you listen to music when you design? What musicians and bands do you love?

I listen to all kinds of music... I guess it depends on what kind of mood I am in and what I am making. Right now I am making traditional Russian inspired ballet costumes with pancake tutu's-they are part of a music box piece for the Vau de Vire Society (a circus company in SF I am the costumer for). I have been listening to Viking metal while I have been working on this. Sometimes I listen to pretty, ethereal, dream pop. Sometimes I listen to witch house and dark wave. Sometimes I listen to my favorite Icelandic music, and sometimes I listen to indie stuff. I've been really obsessed with Beach House lately.

-What music did you like when you were younger? I have a quite a genre legacy from age 11 onward, so I'm very interested in what music people were into at an age when your starting to get passionate about something.

I was always a rocker girl. I grew up in the 90's grunge scene of the Pacific Northwest. From my pre-teens my older brother and I would stay up all night to watch indie music videos on the public access channel. I loved it all; Nirvana, Veruca Salt, Helium, The Red Aunts, Skinny Puppy, Tripping Daisy, Smashing Pumpkins, Alice in Chains... but I especially loved the girl bands. Courtney Love, Shirley Manson and Kathleen Hannah where icons by the time I was 12. I fancied myself a little riot grrl meets grunger (and still do, I might add). I wore a bleeding black heart on my sleeve, and seethed teenage angst. As I got older I got more into brit pop, punk, glam rock and eventually found my way into liking gangster rap and spots of gothy dance music in the mix. I had quite diverse music taste as a kid. I guess I always have and still do... I am always trying to broaden my horizons, yet still have a sentiment for the things I listened to in the past. Definitely always been a rocker girl at heart.

-What do you do when you aren't designing?

Ride my bicycle, which makes me feel like I am a bird, flying. Read books about the circus, or of lyrical poetry and daydream about the ocean. I like to explore abandoned buildings and places, I like to fall in love with all the fleeting moments that catch my heart, and I like to drink champagne and dance all night... as if it's someone's wedding. I like to sleep, a lot. And I like to have rich vibrant dreams, colorful with inspiration, and vibrant with feelings that stick with me into my creations.

-Do you see yourself doing something different in the future, or still making vocal garments?

This is what I love to do, and I can't imagine ever NOT doing it. It's my passion, it's what feeds me every day, why I wake up in the morning. That's not to say that I won't do other things, and that's also not to say I won't get better at the things I already am doing. I think one important factor to keep in mind as an artist is that there is always time and space to get better... that is what propels us forwards. Ultimately, the things that are important in my future in semi chronological order include: continue making lot's of great art in California, world travel, international artist in residencies, making a beautiful home in a beautiful place beside the sea one day with people I love, continuing to experience happiness into old age, always having the ability to see beauty around me and be a hopeless romantic. In the words of the great Audrey Hepburn; "If I'm honest I have to tell you I still read fairy-tales and I like them best of all." Words to live by... forever. I will never give up on believing in magic, and that is the most important thing I know about my future.

 

Check out Papusza here.

From Black to Blond

 When Alison Mosshart first debuted her blond locks a while ago I was a little shocked.  Soon after, I wasn't. 

She is part of the reason why I started this blog.  The intersection of music and fashion, most importantly rocker style, was what I saw in her.  Her torn jeans, perfect worn tees, and leather jackets were down to earth, yet performance ready.  Those were the days when I shunned make up and only wore pants, much like Miss Mosshart.  Like Alison, I later came to embrace make up and wear something besides pants, though I had declared that I never would. 

Even through the changes, she is still an icon who I admire.  I still scour thirft shops for perfectly worn in tees, or wear my own until their just right.  Though I've replaced jeans with leggings, I can't help but covet her green leather motorcycle pants. 

To my young ears and eyes, the music of The Kills, like her on-stage presence, was shocking .  So, Alison Mosshart making a statement is really no big.  It's just her.  For that, she is inspirational.

Spandex Wonders

When leggings came back in fashion about 5 years ago there was debate about the garment.  Some called it a sausage casing for the body, others a remnant of the '80s not to be revisited.  Still, others embraced leggings for their versatility.  Kat Von D has worn just about every type of legging in every way imaginable.  The variety of weight, patterns, and colors can be worn with dresses, skirts, and other any other asymetrical, tattered, or patchworked fashion invention.  Now, much of the world is wearing leggings, and I'm no exception.  Thanks to cotton options I haven't worn pants in three years.

 

I support the sense of freedom leggings have brought to my ensembles.  It is because of them that I can wear short skirts and flowing tunics without feeling exposed or claustraphobic.  My wardrobe has now been altered to a nearly year long state of staples, all because of the warmth, coverage, and breathability of the legging. 

 

 

 

 *photos from tumblr

One Non Blonde

Like most people in my generation, I grew up knowing Linda Perry only as a producer.  When MTV was still playing videos, and my love for VH1's Behind the Music was kindled, I saw her portrayed as the versatile guru in the studio.  Lately, I've been listening to her first solo album "In Flight", something that  I didn't even know existed.  The album is accessibly complex and modern in it's sound, making it hard to believe that it was released in 1996.

Perry's voice commands itself over acoustic guitars and mellow world music vibes.  It's equal parts dark and light intermingled in perfect complexity.  The depth of her voice sounds to the ear like another instrument, used to capture the vulnerability of being human.

I wish that I had listened to Four Non Blondes when I was a young teenager.  Being the girl with the deep voice just made me want to be silent.  Perry owns it the way that I had to learn to do.  Now, many years too late, I understand why she was an inspiration to a whole generation of women.  To me, she still is.

Disir Rising

Sisters of the Black Moon started as an online vintage store.  The cross-continental collaboration of three friends then expanded into an online boutique.  Now, SOTBM is known for stocking modern designers that suit the mystique of the shop's name, as well as for breath-taking editorials shot by Alexandra Valenti.  The images, depicting the Sister of the Black Moon themselves, draw the viewer into the beautiful and strange aesthetic of the shop.

Now, they've debuted a collection of their own.  Disir presents timeless styles easily brought to mind when picturing Norse myths, yet suiting a modern woman of a different kind.  And she wears black.

What is the story behind the name Sisters of the Black Moon? 

The three of us have always felt a strong connection to the moon, as many other women do. It is a constant in our every day lives and the moon's cycles mirror the lives of women. That being said, we were on a buying trip together and were dancing to Alecia's ipod in the car and Fleetwood Mac's Sister of the Moon came on and a lightbulb went off! We played around with that as a name for a bit but we were seeking a name that was a little bit more dark and mysterious ... one thing led to another and voila, the name Sisters of the Black Moon was created!
 
Where did the idea begin to start an online shop?

Ideally, it was something that worked for each one of us personally. With Rachel and Alecia being mothers and Sara living in Sweden (with a baby on the way), it is really the best way for us.

Do you have a physical shop in Austin? Have you even taken SotBM to flea markets?

We do not have a physical shop at this time. We do offer some of our items in a boutique in Austin and our apothecary items are carried in Urban Outfitters. We have taken SOTBM to festivals in the past but no flea markets yet.

How did the editorial element evolve? Alexandra is great. Her style is a perfect fit for the SotBM aesthetic.

We collectively believe that branding ourselves is a huge part of becoming a rock solid business. Having an imaginative styling direction is a must for us and in these moments we can let our dreams run wild. We happened to be lucky enough to have Alexandra as a dear friend to bring these styling visions to fruition.

Where have you shot your editorials? The images capture a sense of being in some exotic place.

We have shot in studios, backyards, forests, Hamilton Pool, Enchanted Rock, and Round Top, Texas,

Why did you choose to use Ebay for vintage? There are so many online shops, I'm just curious about how Ebay suits your business.

When we started this business, Ebay seemed to be the right fit as far as receiving enough traffic. So many people shop on ebay so we wanted to take advantage of that platform to reach a worldwide audience. We opened sistersoftheblackmoon.com in 2012 to offer new designer pieces, artisan work, apothecary items and our own design collaborations.

Where do you hunt for vintage? Have you ever sold hand-me-down's or pieces from relatives?We hunt for vintage pretty much anywhere. Thrift shops, estate sales, vintage stores, garage sales, and our own closets. We don't discriminate.

Do you look for pieces with an aesthetic in mind?Definitely. We try to look for garments that cater to our brand while also focusing on what is selling in today's market and what styles people are drawn to even if it might not fall into our collective aesthetic.  

Is it hard not to keep your finds?

It has gotten easier over the years to let things go. We feel it comes back to you in one form or another. It feels good to pass pieces on and let them live out their full potential.

How do you discover designers to sell in the SotBM online store? And what do you look for in a designer?

We have actually been lucky enough to be friends beforehand with several of the designers that we carry in our store. Others we have happened upon through internet blogs or social networking. I think when looking for designers it is important that they convey a message that we believe in and create pieces that are timeless and wearable.

Do you have any other projects together? Maybe a Sister of the Black Moon girl group? I'd love to know what that album would sound like.

We have just released our SOTBM Spring 2013 Disir Collection. We have been working diligently to create a collection that gives women a sense of beauty, protection, and fluidity. These are strong, spirited pieces that can be easily woven into your everyday wardrobe. I think we are collectively obsessed with each piece. We also have some new products from Naked Eye Beauty on the horizon.

Rachel Hunt wearing the Svala Maxi Cardigan - Disir 

Rachel Hunt

Describe your own style.
It is really hard to define. I find myself to be quite the chameleon. One day, I might be hanging around the house wearing jeans and a t shirt, need to go somewhere, and throw on a red velvet maxi coat (just for a bit of flare). The next day, I could be wearing a dress from the twenties with boots. Really depends on my mood and please note that there are plenty of days I am sure I look homeless and far from fabulous.

When did you become interested in fashion?
Fashion has been a constant presence in my life from a very young age. My dad always told me to try and make a living doing what I love. It hasn't always been easy but I feel blessed to have been able to do so. I love looking back on the different phases of my youth and adulthood and seeing how I chose to express myself through clothing/fashion. It continues to be a wonderful source of entertainment.

Do you prefer vintage?
I treasure vintage. A few years ago I was covered head to toe in vintage. I refused to wear anything else. These days I find myself integrating my most favorite vintage pieces with modern designs.

What are your favorite pieces in the shop?
In love with every piece from our Disir Collection (I have a feeling this will be a unanimous answer). I wear Moonshine and the Ovate Valhalla hoodie on a regular basis. Honestly, there isn't anything in our store that I don't love and wouldn't make a permanent fixture in my wardrobe.

Where are you from originally? How does it compare to living in Austin?
 I spent a good amount of my childhood living in Austin. I have lived in several different Texas cities but none of them have made me feel more at home than Austin does.

Do you have other creative outlets? Do they affect your approach to working on SotBM?
SOTBM is currently my main creative outlet. However, I deeply value the moments when i have time to create my own personal art.

Who are your favorite bands or musicians?
 I am so all over the board with this one but I tend to gravitate towards to classic vinyl side of things! Bob Dylan, Neil Young, Rolling Stones, The Beatles, George Harrison, Fleetwood Mac, Allman Brothers, Black Sabbath, Iggy Pop, Patti Smith, Nina Simone, Ravi Shankar, Booker T & the MGs, Fela Kuti. Blessed to be married to a talented musician/artist whose band, The Black Angels, happens to be one of my favorites.

Do you listen to music when working on SotBM? 
Oh it is a must. Helps create the environment for the task at hand! The music really depends on how I am feeling and what I am working on. I tend to play from the list above or put on Pandora for a little variety.

Has music influenced your style?
Music is such a major part of my life that of course it does. The flamboyant style and attitude from the 60s and 70s will always have my heart when it comes to rock and roll. Today, it is all about taking that influence but making it my own.

Alecia Marcum

Alecia Marcum wearing the Lofn Dress - Disir

Describe your own style.

As a mother, I tend to keep things easy on a daily basis. I'm a jeans and t-shirt kinda gal. When I do go out, I tend to keep it monochromatic. The color black has been slowly taking over my wardrobe since we started this business. Coincidence? Maybe.

When did you become interested in fashion?

I became interested in fashion pretty late. I was a tom boy/dancer growing up. I moved to Austin in 2002 and starting working at Feathers in 2005. It was then that fashion really started to make sense for me. My whole perspective on fashion started to blossom and my eyes were opened to the vintage world.

Do you prefer vintage?

Not necessarily. I love a rare vintage gem but lately I've been more into the minimalist approach.

What are your favorite pieces in the shop?

My favorite pieces in the shop right now are our SOTBM Disir Collection. I want every single piece! Audrey Cantwell of Ovate is constantly blowing my mind though. Her Valhalla Hoodie is one of our best sellers. I practically live in mine.

Where are you from originally? How does it compare to living in Austin?

I'm originally from Norman, Oklahoma. Home of the Sooners. Major college town. There is much more culture and extremeties here in Austin. On average, the people here are more well rounded and open minded.

Do you have other creative outlets? Do they affect your approach to working on SotBM?

If you can consider being a full time mother a creative outlet then yes. Being a mother definitely affects my approach to working on sotbm as it has helped me grow astronomically as a person which has aided in every aspect of my life. It really put things into perspective for me and helped me weed out the bullshit.

Who are your favorite bands or musicians?

Steely Dan/Donald Fagen, Jethro Tull/Ian Anderson, Led Zeppelin/Robert Plant, Metallica, Megadeth, Thin Lizzy, Prince, & Freddie Mercury.

Do you listen to music when working on SotBM?

Yes indeed. I listen to quite a wide range of music. I'm a rocker at heart but I adore jazz, prog rock, and I gotta have my metal. I am lucky to live in a city that has some great music coming out of it. Some local favorites: The Sword, Eagle Claw, The Octopus Project, The Black Angels, & American Sharks. The list could get pretty extensive but to name a few recent listens: Soundgarden, Rush, Children, Yes, Moab, Sharon Jones, Esperanza Spalding, & Justice.

Has music influenced your style?

Most definitely! Music not only inspires me stylistically but it keeps my spirit refreshed and alive.

Sara Larocca-Ramm wearing the Nokken Maxi Dress - Disir

Sara Larocca-Ramm

Describe your own style.

I've always felt my style was a little rough around the edges. I will wear a favorite piece of clothing until it is falling apart at the seams. I also prefer to wear silhouettes that would suit either gender. Since I have moved to Sweden my style has changed a bit due to the weather. Fabric content and the art of layering have become so important to me now. On a daily basis you will find me in a pair of worn to hell black skinny jeans and black boots. For special occasions it is usually a maxi dress in a muted tone with simple accessories.

When did you become interested in fashion?

It is hard to think of a time when I was not interested in fashion. As a child I was always envious of those children who could draw or paint with ease so I used clothing as my artistic expression. Growing up we did not always have the money for shopping trips or the newest brands so I was pushed to create different outfits from what already existed in my closet, and I still do that today.

Do you prefer vintage?

When it comes to accessories and shoes I definitely prefer vintage. A little wear and tear on a bag or a pair of boots really appeals to me. As far as clothing goes, I tend wear modern pieces but definitely will not snub my nose at a fitted victorian top or jacket.

What are your favorite pieces in the shop?

I have to say first off our new DISIR collection. I could toss out most of my closet and live only in those pieces. Another staple is my black water tank that is an SOTBM collaboration piece with the amazing Leslie Crow of Heyoka leather. And if I wasn't pregnant you better believe I would figure out somewhere to wear that insane Anu Tera corset skirt!

Where are you from originally? How does it compare to living in Austen?

I am originally from Lake Charles, Louisiana. I think you get that genuine southern hospitality in both Louisiana and Austin. As far as food, fashion, music and overall culture goes, Austin blows my hometown out of the water. But, I no longer live in Texas. I made the move to Sweden about 2 1/2 years ago to be with my husband and make a life here.

Do you have other creative outlets? Do they affect your approach to working on SotBM?

When deciding to open our store 3 years ago I think the entire vision was to be able to express ourselves creatively and make a living from it. When I am not working on SOTBM, I enjoy jewelry making, cooking, photography and I am dying to take a woodworking course.

Who are your favorite bands or musicians?

Oh man! All time favorites are Neil Young, Peter Green era Fleetwood Mac, Alice Cooper, Townes Van Zandt, Black Sabbath, Pearl Jam, Patti Smith, Graveyard.

Do you listen to music when working on SotBM?

To me it is vital to have some background music playing while I am working. In the mornings it is usually my man playing guitar in the living room. Other artists that have been on repeat lately are Chelsea Wolfe, PJ Harvey, Tonbruket and Goat.

Has music influenced your style?

Sure! I mean, I am not going to go out in full length fringe sleeves because I've been watching some Sabbath videos but I think music has a way of creeping into your wardrobe in a subtle, unconscious way.

 Sisters of the Black Moon